spinning qualities

This is a spinner's term given to the method of spinning on the cap-spinning frame in which each spindle has a metal cap. The threads pass round the rim as they are wound on the bobbin. The process is only used for botany and fine cross-bred wool yarns. The difference between the cap and the flyer and also the ring, is in the method of twisting and winding on. In the cap frame the spindle is stationary, but on it, and resting on the lifter-plate, runs a tube or shell which has a wharle at the bottom, by which it is driven. The bobbin fits on the barrel, being positively driven by means of a peg fixed over the wharle. Winding-on is aided by a removable cap, which guides the end on to the bobbin (worked in and out of the cap by the lifter) as the bobbin revolves, and causes it to " balloon " and draw round the bottom of the cap. As there are only tube and bobbin to drive, a much greater speed can be obtained - 6,000 to 7,000 revs. per minute - without excessive vibration on this frame; but on the other hand, owing to the centrifugal force on the thread, a rougher yam is produced. With short and fine merino wool this roughness is not too marked for many yarns; but on the coarse and open qualities the roughness is sufficient to make them almost useless.

Flax, Broken - Scutched flax which is less than 20-in. long and therefore unfit for hackling in the spinning mill. Flax, C.D. and T. - Graders' marks which denote the type of scutched flax: c (chaine) to represent warps, D (demi) to represent medium warps, and T (trame) to represent wefts. Flax, Green, or Natural - Scutched flax produced from de-seeded straw without any intermediate treatment such as retting. Flax, Line - The hackled flax produced by a hackling machine or hand hackling. A term sometimes erroneously applied to scutched flax. Flax, Retted - Scutched flax produced from straw which has been retted. Usually divided into three main classes, namely, water retted flax, dew retted flax, and chemically retted flax. Flax, Scutched - The product from the delivery end of a scutching machine or from scutching flax straw on a wheel. It consists of the long fibre strands in a parallel condition and substantially free from wood and other extraneous material. The yield of scutched flax is commonly expressed as stones (14-lb.) per acre, but in Ireland it is sometimes expressed as stones per peck of seed sown. The average yield per acre of scutched flax has varied according to year from about 20 stones per acre to 40 stones per acre, with occasional exceptional yields of 80 and 90 stones per acre. Grader, Flax - The man who places the scutched flaxes in their appropriate grades of quality by eye judgment and feel. Grades, Flax - Tank retted flaxes are graded from A through the alphabet in ascending order of value. Dam retted flaxes are graded from 1-7 in descending order of value. Dew retted flaxes are graded 0-6 in descending order of value. Grades, Tow - Green tow is graded 1-8 and then 9a, 9b, Z, Z₂, and beater tow in descending order of value. Tank retted tow is graded I, II, III, 1, 2, 3, 3X, 3XXX, in descending order, whilst dam and dew retted tows are I, II, II, 1, 2, 3. Pluckings - The short, clean fibre produced at the end of the scutching machine where the operatives dress and square the pieces of flax ready for selection. In grading pluckings are classed as tow (q.v.). Root Ends, Straw - The broken-off roots which fall from the straw under the breaking rollers. Rug, Scutching - All the detritus which falls below the two compartments of the scutching machine after the shives have been shaken out of it, or the waste made when producing scutched flax on a wheel. It consists of partly scutched short straws, broken straws, weeds, and beater tow. It is classed as root end rug or top end rug, according to which end of the flax it comes from. Selection - The preliminary sorting of the scutched flax into main grades at the delivery end of the scutching machine. Shives - The short pieces of woody waste beaten from the straw during scutching. Tow - Any substantially clean but tossed and tangled flax fibre of less than scutched flax length. Tow Baling - The operation of making-up tow into bales. Tow, Beater - Short, fine, clean fibres which fall from the last third of the compartments during scutching. Tow, Inferior low grade (Green) - Green tow of a grade lower than 9a. Tow, Inferior low grade (Retted) - Retted tow of a grade lower than 3XXX. Tow, Machine, or Cast - Tow produced by the hackling machine. Tow, Rejected - Tow unsuitable for spinning on flax tow machinery. Tow, Rescutched - Two scutched on tow handles or a tow scutching machine. Tow, Rolled - The product from passing scutching rug through tow rollers and highspeed shaker. Tow, Rolled and Beaten - The product from passing scutching rug through tow rollers and beaters, and a high-speed shaker. The principal flax markets of the world are at Courtrai, Bruges, Ghent, Lokeren and Zele in Belgium; Rotterdam in Holland; Riga in Latvia; Leningrad, Pernau and Witebek in Russia; Douai and Flines in France; Newry, Rathfriland, Strabane, Ballymoney, Lisnaskea, Ballybay and Armagh in Ireland. Courtrai flax is the finest produced. It is uniform in fibre, strong, clean and of a good colour. Yarns up to 200's lea are spun from it. Irish flax comes next in spinning qualities from 90's to 120's lea are produced. As a warp yarn it is much preferred as the strength is greater than other types. Flemish flax is dark in colour, dryer than others, strong, and can be spun up to 120's lea. Dutch flax is clean, good colour and spins into yams up to 90's lea. Russian flax is coarser than the above types and is usually spun up to about 70's lea.

A high-grade crossbred wool and one of the most useful wools of commerce. It is obtained by crossing merino ewes with Lincoln or Leicester rams. It has a staple of good and regular length and is soft in handle. It is used extensively for mixing with shoddy and mungo fibres to impart bulk and spinning qualities. New Zealand wools in the main are fairly free from vegetable matter, and this gives the wools a value very often more than like qualities from other countries. Merino wool is a small part of New Zealand production, probably not more than 5 per cent. The wool is generally free from vegetable matter, but is rather "lean" in character, the quality is not equal to the better-known Australian types, while the shrinkage is fairly heavy owing more to heavy grease rather than earthy matter.

A wool having very good spinning qualities and a fibre about 10-in. to 11-in. long. It is strong and requires less twist than most wools when used alone. It is used for fabrics requiring strength. The fleece weighs 9-lb. to 10-lb.

A trade term for a long, strong wool with good spinning qualities.

Wool obtained from the sheep of this name in England and Australia. It is fine, strong and lustrous, of superior quality and spinning qualities. The average weight is about 6-lb. per fleece. The breed is a larger and hardier one than most of the British sheep. Staple about 4¹/₂-in. and spins 46's to 50's quality.

(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 6¹/₂T., 2/20's 8¹/₂T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed.

Wool yarns of superior quality and appearance spun from the better qualities of wools, and by a much more elaborate preparation for spinning than woollen yarns receive. The aim is to assemble or rearrange the constituent fibres of the yarns as near parallel as possible, and to remove by combing all the short fibres that would otherwise spoil the regularity, smoothness and lustre which is characteristic of worsted yarns. The broad definition that - worsted yarns are combed and woollen yarns are not - still holds good. There are four methods in common use for spinning worsted yarns, i.e., cap spinning, mule, flyer and ring spinning, each having special characteristics that make it more suitable than the other for spinning certain types and counts.

Formerly this only referred to waste resulting from the processing of long filament rayon. Rayon staple fibre is now specially manufactured on a large scale similar to that for the making of long filament rayon up to the process of spinning, after which it is cut into staple lengths suitable for spinning either on cotton, woollen or worsted spinning machinery. Rayon staple fibre is produced in bright and dull qualities, and in various denier sizes. Usual sizes in commercial use in this country are 1.25 denier and 1.5 denier filament thickness and 1⁷/₈-in. and 1⁷/₁₆ -in. staple for spinning on cotton machinery or mixing with cotton; 3, 4.5 and 8 denier filaments of 3-in., 4-in., 6-in., and 8-in. staple for blending with wool.

This is produced in exactly the same way as continuous filament viscose up to the point of spinning. Instead of making a separate thread at each spinneret, the filaments from all spinnerets on a frame are drawn together into a rope which runs into a cutter which chops the filaments into a definite staple length varying from 1⁷/₁₆ -in. for mixing with cotton or spinning on cotton machinery, up to 2-in. to 8-in. for mixing with wool or for spinning on wool machinery. Viscose staple fibre is also produced in various filament deniers such as 1.5 denier equivalent to cotton fibre thickness, or 3 and 4.5 filament denier equivalent to wool qualities.

These are woollen cloths woven from crossbred wool yarns and this type of wool is generally classed in three qualities - fine, medium and low. Fine - The fibre has good length, is uniform, and has a spinning limit of about 48's worsted counts. These are used for coatings, and dress fabrics of a medium quality. Medium - Similar to fine, but of a lower quality and the spinning limit is about 40's worsted counts. Used for such fabrics as Cheviots, and others that require a crisp handle. Low - Spins to about 32's worsted counts, and is used for cheap low worsteds.

1. качество; сорт; класс; 2. добротность (пряжи или нити); 3. способность; 4. плотность переплетения; 5. артикул @quality of fabric 1. качество ткани; сорт ткани; 2. плотность ткани @quality of wool номер качества шерсти; сорт шерсти @cloth quality 1. качество ткани; сорт ткани; 2. плотность ткани @desizing quality способность к расшлихтовке @draping quality драпируемость @felting quality валкоспособность, свойлачиваемость @fiber qualities качественные показатели волокна @fire-retarding quality огнестойкость @hygienic quality санитарно-гигиенические свойства @packing quality перемоточная способность (пряжи) @spinning quality 1. прядомость; 2. размоточная способность (шелковины) @top quality 1. высшее качество; 2. качество гребенной шерстяной ленты @wearing quality износоустойчивость @

1. качество; сорт; класс; 2. добротность (пряжи или нити); 3. способность; 4. плотность переплетения; 5. артикул @quality of fabric 1. качество ткани; сорт ткани; 2. плотность ткани @quality of wool номер качества шерсти; сорт шерсти @cloth quality 1. качество ткани; сорт ткани; 2. плотность ткани @desizing quality способность к расшлихтовке @draping quality драпируемость @felting quality валкоспособность, свойлачиваемость @fiber qualities качественные показатели волокна @fire-retarding quality огнестойкость @hygienic quality санитарно-гигиенические свойства @packing quality перемоточная способность (пряжи) @spinning quality 1. прядомость; 2. размоточная способность (шелковины) @top quality 1. высшее качество; 2. качество гребенной шерстяной ленты @wearing quality износоустойчивость @

These yams are produced by carding, dry-combing, French drawing, arid worsted mule spinning. Short, fine wools generally of the inferior qualities are used. The yarns are free from oil and so are easily cleaned and can be dyed in brighter and more even shades than is possible with oil-spun yarns. They are used for knit goods and dress materials.

A variety of American cotton rather short in staple, dirty and soft. It is usually used for mixing with waste for the spinning of yarns for sponge cloths, lamp wicks, rug and carpet yarns, etc. The better qualities make good yarns for weft in cheap raising cloths, especially when mixed with some of the East Indian varieties, in counts up to 20's.

Synthetic textile fibre produced from a polyester derived essentially from terepthalic acid and ethylene glycol, it is the result of research work initiated by Calico Printers' Association, and carried out in their laboratories by Mr. J. R. Whinfield, assisted by Dr. J. T. Dickson and others. The qualities of polyester, and its potential value for fibre making, were recognised by the C.P.A., and patents covering the inventions were taken out by them. The subsequent research work on the chemical polymer and its conversion into a textile fibre was entrusted to Imperial Chemical Industries, who acquired an exclusive licence covering the whole world outside the U.S.A. From a given sample of the parent polymer it is possible to produce multi-filament yams of widely different characteristics by varying the physical and mechanical operations of the spinning and processing. Thus, for example, it is possible to obtain from the same polymer a yarn of low extensibility, but with outstandingly high strength (8 grams per denier or higher), or one of increased extensibility, but with lower strength. Notable property of " Terylene " is high resistance to light and heat and high initial elastic modulus.